So you can HDR but can you do it in one shot and without filters?

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Posted on 24th July 2010 by admin in HDR High Dynamic Range |Landscape

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High Dynamic Range or HDR in it’s shortened form has opened up many new avenues for photography. HDR is a process of blending multiple exposures together to better reproduce the dynamic range of the scene and for the most part it’s a very useful tool indeed. I myself have done many experiments into HDR using bracketing of frames to produce multiple exposures which I can later blend BUT all that blending does take up a lot of time in post processing.

Just doing one image blend with 7 exposures with some fine tuning and manual blending included you can easily spend 1-2 hours to get the image perfect. In some cases it might be worth it to take a very special moment you captured on film and to spend that time working the image to perfection. While this can and does produce some very special effects within images I still find HDR, no matter how well executed, to lack something truly special, an ambience that only a single shot exposure carries.

One exposure requires finding the perfect moment to capture the image.

While some may argue that we’re now in the digital world and we must all move to new and wonderful ways of processing images I say yes and no to that argument. I will use HDR when I find it necessary and with many shoots I will bracket exposures regardless but my primary goal is always to get it right with one exposure. I find simply bracketing exposures on every shoot with the intention of later blending and “fixing” it in photoshop makes one a rather lazy photographer because you tend to find a recipe, set up, compose, bracket and go home to fix. Guilty as charged.

While this approach may be perfectly okay for some I enjoy photography because it challenges my mind. I myself got into a trap for a short while of merely relying on bracketed exposures for nearly all shoots. There were many days when I was too lazy to get out filters and do it properly so it was much easier to just bracket my exposures and do the hard work later in Photoshop.

In the end I was just finding HDR was totally lacking something very special, HDR just looked too perfect and NOT at all how the eye saw it. HDR fanatics (myself included) continually fool themselves into believing that the end product they produce through HDR and image blending is a faithful representation of what they saw, but of the many many photographers I know only a few ever take real notice of what the scene really looks like. The others have their eyes stuck permanently behind the viewfinder relying solely on the camera to capture all the necessary bits of information. I make a point of studying very carefully the scene’s I record and do my best to etch them in my mind, right down to the tiniest details and by doing so I manage to find some very special elements of an image that HDR tends to over-produce and in most cases actually ruin. Shadow areas of an image, for example, are crucial to the depth and feel of an image yet HDR fanatics tend to, what I call rape the shadow areas, lightening them up much more than they appeared to the human eye and it’s so easy to fall into this trap with HDR. Again .. guilty as charged :)

In the last year I have slowly forced myself back to basics, getting exposures perfect with a single exposure, without filters and without bracketing. It’s not always easy depending on light conditions but actually a lot of the time it is and it all comes down to timing, planning and using all available and natural elements to control the flow of light into the camera.

I’ve enjoyed my journey with HDR and I do know I will still use HDR methods for certain work but with landscape, nature and some other forms of photography I’m finding the step back to basics to be producing very special images like none other and it’s made my photography all that more interesting and challenging again. The mental challenge has always been my driving force and it’s good to have that old friend back at my side.

MK

Fixing Bad Photos or photos that weren’t any good to begin with

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Posted on 29th May 2010 by admin in Tutorials

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Since the advent of digital photography and digital editing software, it has become far too easy for photographers to take really badly exposed images and correct them in post processing. While the end result yields a better image than what was captured, sadly this is NOT really photography, yet as we progress more into the digital age, such image manipulations are being passed off as professional photography and even worse as “fine art”.

In this tutorial I will show you examples of what I mean and how I can take what I consider a really shoddy image (yes even pro’s take shit shots from time to time) and how I can turn that image into a much better looking image, but is it photography? Personally I say not really as what I am about to show you crosses the line from photography into the world of digital manipulation and the resulting image is a digital image but I personally don’t consider it to be an actual true photograph any longer.

We start out with our RAW image straight from the camera. The image was captured against the setting sun which causes the camera to hit all sorts of obstacles when trying to expose this scene. We don’t want to lose the lovely orange glow of the sky and as a result we capture that but all the shadow areas are completely blacked out. The starting image below shows the resulting situation many a photographer is faced with. We captured that lovely glow of the sky but there is no detail in the shadow or midtone areas, at least that’s what we think.

fixing bad photos with hdr raw processing and image blending techniques

Our starting RAW image, unedited straight out of the camera. This is how the camera interpreted the exposure and had you been shooting with film this is pretty much what you would be stuck with.

So now how do we go ahead and rescue this photograph? First of all I open this RAW image in my favourite RAW processing application and the manipulation begins. I first introduce “Fill Light” so I crank that slider from 0 to about 85. I then play with the tone curve profile of the image (highlights, lights, shadows and darks). I drag my shadow slider up to about +45, I’ll take the Darks slider to +25, I’ll take the Lights slider to -25 and finally I’ll push the Highlights slider to +10. I am now left with the following image but I’m not quite done yet. Amazing to see how much information the camera really captured in the shadow but the manipulations carried out thus far already exceed the actual exposure.

rescuing bad photography

We've done some minor adjustments in our RAW editing programme, manipulating the shadow and midtone areas. Suddenly we start to see something peering out of what was previously total darkness.

Okay so things are looking a little better now and as it stands above is a marked improvement from the original but I’m now going to push it even more. I should stop with the changes I made above which to me look better than what I am about to do but now I’m going to go to insane extremes to further illustrate the kind of work I am seeing in many places on the web. Messing with all those sliders has revealed detail in what was previously just black but by doing these adjustments I’ve introduced a lot of noise and artifacts into the image. Okay so I’ll just do some noise removal … easy peasy. I now take my image into my image editing software and after doing some noise removal I also want to bring a little more detail into the image. So after I’ve done my noise removal I am going to mess some more with the highlights, shadows and midtones and I’ll do this in my image editing program by doing some manipulation on highlights, shadows and midtones contrasts, I call this “raping the shadows”. Each image editing programme has the above adjustments, some programmes call them by sligthly different names. Okay so I messed around for less than a minute and now I have the following image.

the bad photo starts becoming better

Okay so after some more manipulation of the image it's actually starting to look like something but we can still play with this some more.

Now I want to adjust the colours a little and make it look even “better” so I now mess some more with my contrasts, brightness, levels, curves and I add some more warmth using a photo warming filter and at the same time I want to try and get the sky closer to the original colour captured. Each time I’m doing changes I’m introducing noise and artifacts into the image but I can fix that in my final steps with some more noise removal. My final image which I “could” spend another hour messing with would look a whole lot better, in fact I could make make it look much much better but for the point of this tutorial I’ll stop processing now to give you an indication of what can be done with some very quick manipulation and how a really poorly exposed photograph has been turned into something better or perhaps worse looking.

the ugly duckling starts to look better fixing bad photos

The once ugly duckling now starts to actually look like something (or does it), but is it still a photograph?

To the untrained eye, a quick glance and people will saw “ooh it looks nice” but the image is filled  with imperfections now, because I pushed it past certain limits I have introduced many things that need to be fixed now. However, because I am displaying these images to you on the web at a mere 400 pixels in size it’s even easier for me to hide the MANY imperfections that have been introduced as a result of the manipulation I have done, this is another factor that bad photographers rely on, the fact that at a small resolution on the web they can make a poor image actually look ok. I’ve however over exaggerated the imperfections in these examples.

I know if I spent another hour working on this image I could make it absolutely perfect and you would hardly notice a single imperfection but …. you know what …. I’m going no further with it, this was merely to demonstrate something and personally an image like this will never make it into any of my collections nor will I even try to pass it off as a photograph and least of all as fine art. I simply keep images like to demonstrate things like this and normally anything that came out like this would end up deleted on the spot. I will rather re-shoot the scene using the proper methods to capture the scene correctly in a single frame that requires only very slight corrections which are considered acceptable.

Now when I say “acceptable” what do I mean? Well if I shoot the scene correctly using filters to hold back the exposure on the sky while getting my foreground exposed, I can do this in a single frame, I can do very minor RAW adjustments which do not involve dragging any slider more than 5-10 steps from its original setting and do not involve manipulating the image beyond what you can actually see straight out of camera. I will be able to enter the image in any leading competition (not this image of course) and when my original RAW image is requested for authentication I will not feel any worry or resistance sending the original to the judges. This is the big difference between photography and digital imaging. What I have produced above is a digital image and quite honestly no longer a photograph. I would not feel comfortable nor would I dare entering it into a competition (it’s a crap shot for a starter) nor would I try to pass it off or sell it or anything produced in a similar fashion to somebody as photography or fine art. Some competitions allow digitally manipulated images but they are few and far between.

Sadly though I see more and more photographers starting as beginners who learn to digitally rescue their bad photos and within a year they are calling themselves professionals and actually marketing and selling images produced using similar techniques as above. What’s even more worrying is that these photographers actually believe they are really good and instead of learning to take better photos they rely on snapping anything knowing they can fix it later. It’s a really bad approach to photography and does not further the art of photography and instead in my personal opinion it hurts the artform immensely. By all means there is a time and place for slightly enhancing shadow areas in an image but doing such agressive manipulations as above is not “slight” by any means.

Photography forums all over the place are filled with photographers preaching and teaching these techniques and misleading other beginners into following such methods, all this does is produce many more bad photographers who again in a very short time are trying to market and sell this nonsense as photographic art. Too many of these “photographers” have their friends, family and facebook fans telling them how wonderful their photographs are but they are also not being told the whole story of how the person “created” the image and to the untrained eyes it looks perfect but it’s so easy to spot manipulated images and the more you know about photography the easier you will spot manipulated imagery. Unfortunately once these photographers get caught in this trap of digital manipulation they seem to know it all and will simply not take criticism from a professional photographer but would rather remain blinded by the “wow” and “awesome” comments they receive from their friends and fans and as a result they will never really progress.

While they may remain blinded by the truth, I say to such photographers please don’t think that it is not possible to spot these manipulations from a mile away, it’s damn easy to spot a) when you actually know a lot about photography and b) when you have a trained eye. Stop fooling yourself that this is photography, stop relying on photoshop to fix your bad photography and actually learn to take better photos.

“Blending Landscape HDR Images” by Hougaard Malan (Guest Post)

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Posted on 21st January 2010 by admin in Tutorials

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First and foremost, I want to clear a certain disillusion that has entered people’s minds about HDR.  It is in no way some miraculous technique to make a mediocre photo an amazing one ,neither is it the gateway to becoming a great digital landscape photographer. Post processing will always play a minor role in creating great photographs and the effort will always be in the planning and shooting.

Why do we use HDR? Because a camera can’t always capture the dynamic range of light in most natural scenes in one exposure , which results in areas of the image that have no detail due to shadows or highlights. Traditionally we would use graduated neutral density filters to balance the exposure, but they are rather expensive and limited by many situations found in landscapes everywhere, like uneven horizons, tall objects like trees, mountains etc. When digitally blending 2 or more images we are basically simulating an ND filter, but we have full control over how the graduation of the filter would have been. HDR opens new doors in landscape photography, but I still prefer to use graduated filters and do where ever I can. Moving objects within an image creates a lot of problems for HDR blending, because your images have to be identical ( apart from the exposure ). You can get away with it to a certain extent, but cameras are still very primitive compared to the human eye and sometimes we simply can’t capture what we saw.
The basic concept of HDR is to capture the total dynamic range of the scene ( when it is greater than the camera can capture in one exposure ) in multiple exposures and combine select parts of the various exposures using Photoshop.
The first thing we need is the multiple exposures of a scene. In most natural scenes, the sky is brighter than the land/foreground and if you expose for the sky, the foreground is too dark and if you expose for the foreground then the sky is too bright. So we take a separate exposure for each.
The easiest way is to use your camera’s AEB (auto exposure bracketing – see camera manual ) function. It allows you to capture a sequence of 3 exposures, each a certain f-value apart. In most situations, you simply need one exposure for the sky and one for the foreground as shown below.

HDR1

HDR image blending tutorial by Hougaard Malan

If this is the case, meter the sky and foreground separately, check the difference and set the bracketing so that the exposures are that f-value apart so that you get an ideal exposure for each. The 3rd doesn’t matter and can be deleted. So if the sky is 2 stops brighter than the foreground, set the bracketing for 0; -2; +2 and expose it for either sky or FG and you will have the 2 necessary exposures in your sequence.
Sometimes however, a nasty highlight or shadow requires a 3rd exposure as shown below.

HDR2

Bracketing exposures

Once again, meter the sky and FG separately, set the AEB so that you get an adequate exposure for both and check if the 3rd exposure has the detail in the shadow/highlight area you require. If not, simply capture a darker/brighter exposure by setting a single exposure manually or do a whole sequence manually. Shooting for it comes naturally and you quickly learn with experience, so don’t worry too much about it.


In a short sentence : You need multiple exposures of which the darkest image may have no highlights and the brightest image may have no shadows.

Usually 2 exposures are enough for most scenes as I will show in the first example.


Blending a 2 exposure image

1.  We start by just opening our 2 images that we are going to blend. RAW adjustments should already have been applied and make sure your layers window is open (F7).

HDR3

Foreground and Sky Exposures To be Blended

Now, simply for practicality reasons, stack the exposures ( in this case 2 ) from darkest to brightest by using the move tool (v) and simply dragging the one image onto the other one. Hold shift in as you drop the image and it will align itself within the frame. You have now stacked the 2 layers and you will see the 2 thumbs in your layers window. Clicking on the eye to the left of the top thumb will hide the top layer and reveal the layer below.

HDR4

You can now close the bright exposure as you have it in a layer on the darker one. Maximize the window simply for better viewing. You will be working on a layer mask so that any mistakes can be easily corrected. At the bottom of the layers window there’s a rectangle with a circle in, click on it to add a layer mask (make sure your top layer is selected ) to the top layer.

HDR5

To simulate the graduated filter, we use a gradient on the layer mask. Press G to select your gradient tool. Check at the top of the window for the following (if everything is on default, it will be right )

  1. The gradient type must be foreground to background ( top left )
  2. Orientation of the gradient must linear ( left )
c. Mode – normal
d. Opacity – 100%
HDR6

Gradient Settings in Photoshop For Image Blending

Press D to make sure your FG/BG color is on default. 
You will now blend the two exposures. Where you click the gradient tool, the gradient will start, you then drag it to where you want the gradient to end. You can drag the line at any angle and the gradient will be in that direction. Below I have simply dragged a gradient onto a white mask to show you. You can see how the gradient starts where I clicked, transitions over the path I dragged and ends where I released the mouse. The black pixels will reveal what’s on the layer below them. The pure black will reveal everything with the gray pixels resulting in a smooth transition that fades the 2 exposures into each other.

HDR7

Applying a Gradient

For this specific image, the gradient will transition over about 40% of the image at a slight angle (90 degrees to the horizon ). The line I dragged to create the gradient looks like this.

HDR8

The gradient will look like this:

HDR9

You can now touch up the gradient by painting on the mask with a brush. Once you are happy with the blend, you should flatten the image and treat it as one exposure. Doing separate adjustments to the blended layers can sometimes make a nasty unwanted transition between the layers visible.

You can now do your usual processing steps to get to the final result.

HDR10

Blending a 3 Exposure Image

Stack the 3 exposures from dark to bright as explained above and give the 2 top layers each a layer mask. To give separate layers a mask, simply click on the layer thumb in the layers window and then click on the add layer mask button. Once you’ve added the layer masks, you can click on the eye of the top layer to hide it as we will work on the sky first. Your layers window should now look as shown below.

HDR11

90% of the time the 3rd exposure is to deal with a highlight around the sun and it is always a big circular blob so to blend it we will use the radial gradient. Choose the gradient tool ( g ) and now select the radial gradient in the top tab (refer to point 4 above – tab b – 2nd icon) and set it to a 50% opacity (tab d) to begin with. The necessary opacity depends on the image.

HDR13

Now drag the gradient from the centre of the highlight outwards. Usually the transition has to be quite big so you can drag it as far as you can. It’s a trial and error process and practice makes perfect. Below you can see the gradient I settled for and how it revealed the detail in the highlight area from the darker exposure below.

HDR14

You can now simply blend in the foreground of the image as explained in the previous example. Remember to select the correct gradient again as shown in point 4 above. When starting out with this stuff, the most common errors people usually make is simply not having the correct layer or gradient tool or palette colors selected so always double check your tools when something isn’t working as it should!

HDR15

Here are a few more of my images, some of which uses the same techniques as mentioned above.

Hougaard1

"More Boats" - by Hougaard Malan

‘More Boats’

hougaard21

"The Bay Of Fire" - by Hougaard Malan

‘The Bay of Fire’

hougaard3

"Cliche" - by Hougaard Malan

‘Cliche’

hougaard4

"Victoria Bay" - by Hougaard Malan

‘Victoria Bay’

hougaard5

"Desert Storm" - by Hougaard Malan

hougaard6

"At Rest" - by Hougaard Malan

‘At Rest’

If you have any questions of thoughts please feel free to comment!

Hougaard Malan

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