Take your Photography to the next level with 123di

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Posted on 21st July 2010 by admin in Software

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So you’re more than just a budding photographer now. You’ve been getting great feedback about your photos and you just love doing what you’re doing. Well now it’s time to take things to the next level with the 123 of Digital Photography. This program has become renowned as the defacto learning guide and you can purchase, download and start improving your photos right now.

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Why I Needed an iPad (and You Might Not)

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Posted on 15th July 2010 by Michael Johnston in Photography |Software

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Blog146figure1 My laptop screen is sporting the same arrangement of Photoshop palettes as I use at home when I've got it connected up to my large Apple Cinema Display. The iPad is sitting in landscape orientation on its iSee stand with the Pogo pen in front of it.

By Ctein

As soon as I read the detailed specifications for the iPad, I had a suspicion that most people were ignoring one of its more notable features: namely, that it was likely to be sporting the best display that had ever been put into a portable device.

The day they came out, in early April, my friend Mark Richards bought one. He showed it to me that weekend. I pulled up some difficult-to-render photographs from my website and pixel-peeped like mad. The iPad had a near-studio-quality display. (Truth is I've seen studio displays that were worse; I'm just very fussy.) The iPad held gamma well with changing viewing angle, and if it wasn't running full 24-bit color with no dithering, it was faking it well enough that I couldn't tell.

I commented that if only there was a way to run Photoshop on these things, I'd buy one in a minute. When I'm away from home, I'm stuck with doing my photographic work on a laptop computer. Laptop computer displays suck. I don't understand how people can do serious photographic work on them. I make do when I'm in the field, but only for rough editing and corrections; it's impossible to see exactly what's going on in a photograph. The iPad was so much better.

Mark then told me he'd heard that there was a way to tether an iPad to a laptop as a secondary display. I cursed him loudly; that bit of information might cost me mucho dinero. How well a $10 app worked would determine whether or not I'd buy many hundred of dollars worth of hardware.

I finally had a chance to try out the Air Display app on another friend's iPad (thank you, Chris) over my vacation last month in Minneapolis. It turned the iPad into a usable secondary high-quality monitor while running Photoshop on my MacBook Pro. The next day I went to the Apple store and bought one.

The low-end $500 model, with 16 GB of storage and no cellular network capabilities, would have been sufficient. After consideration, though, I ended up buying the 64 GB, 3G model. Why? First, this is more than merely a display. It's a self-contained computer, and it has never, ever made sense for me to buy at the low end of hardware. Second, as someone who hasn't had experience living in the being-connected-everywhere world, I didn't know whether I might care about that. It seemed foolish to get the model without cellular capability lest I discover later that I really want it and wind up replacing the whole computer. Several people impressed upon me that I'd likely find this a mighty useful feature, and they've been proved right. My price ended up nearly doubling, but whatthehell, it's only money.

Then there were the incidentals. An extended warranty (I am very bad with equipment care), a conductive foam Pogo Sketch stylus (fingers are just too fat for working directly on a photograph), and a Contour iSee for iPad (a hard clamshell with a collapsible stand that lets me prop up the iPad in landscape or portrait orientation).

There went a grand, but what did that get me? A portable dual-display rig with a studio-quality display that's touch sensitive, so I can brush directly on the photo I'm working on. Definitely worth it to me.

It's not as functional as a 12" Cintiq; there's no pressure sensitive stylus for the iPad (yet), and screen update is sluggish. But the cheap iPad's half the price, half the volume, a third the weight, and self-powered, and I'll bet the display's a lot better.

Blog146figure2 Here I'm taking advantage of the touch-sensitive screen on the iPad to do some burning in on a photograph with a masked curves adjustment layer.

The combination works well enough. It has occasional idiosyncrasies; most significantly, one has to get used to the lag time in the display update. It's not a problem in Photoshop when using brushes or working with adjustment layers—it can refresh small areas of the screen rapidly. It takes more than a second to do a full display update, so you wouldn't want to use it for anything that requires a decent frame rate or for presenting a slideshow. I do think there's a good chance that performance will improve in the future, as slow response time is the primary complaint everyone has about this category of apps. In the meantime, you should probably do as I did and try before you buy, to make sure you're comfortable with the screen update rates.

iPad color out of the box is acceptable. Not as good as a studio monitor, but close enough for serious work, and much, much better than anything I could get in a portable device before. I can use it for making serious refinements to a photograph, which was, after all, the point.

My efforts to color manage the iPad had mixed results. Profile Mechanic Monitor didn't work at all; every time I ran it I got an entirely different result and it was always bizarre. ColorMunki worked pretty well but not perfectly. The hues and the values are very good in the profile; the color-managed iPad's rendering of B&W photographs matches my prints exactly. But, the chroma is too high. Not by a lot—if I add hue/saturation adjustment layer and drop the saturation by 20 points, it looks just about right.

If I can't figure out how to get a better profile built, I'll just start adding a –20 point hue/saturation adjustment layer as a visual filter whenever I'm working in Photoshop in the field. It may be that I'm being too fussy about this. My Apple Cinema Display, fully calibrated, is about 10 points too low in saturation.

So, I'm a very happy camper and after three weeks I'm still not suffering from buyers remorse. I've got a much, much better portable digital darkroom than I ever thought I'd have.

Oh yeah, and let's not forget that it is an iPad, not just a portable monitor. Maybe it'll even prove useful in other ways. Ya nevva knows....

Incidentally, if readers know of any other large-screen portable devices with near-studio-quality displays, I would like to hear about them. (But please don't tout some netbook or other portable device with the usual lousy screens; sure, they have their uses, but not for my kind of work.)

Blog146figure3 Air Display creates a wireless connection between the iPad and my laptop, so I don't have to actually be seated at the laptop unless I need the big screen. I did my sorting and editing of photographs in Adobe Bridge and Adobe Camera RAW sitting on the comfy bed.

Ctein

Photographs copyright 2010 by David Dyer-Bennet. DDB made these photographs to illustrate this article while we were on a two-day photo trip over July 4 weekend up to Lake Superior's North Shore. They were posed for the sake of clarity and aesthetics, but they are not staged. This was my working setup and these were my working conditions.

Ctein's regular weekly column appears every Thursday morning. TOP is currently on summer hours, which means late morning for the time being.

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Original contents copyright 2010 by Michael C. Johnston and/or the bylined author. All Rights Reserved.

Featured Comment by Steve G, Mendocino: "Ctein: Once again, my Thursday morning is enlivened by useful and relevant information, well presented. That being said, curse you—I'd dismissed the iPad until now."

Featured Comment by Bahi: "Very informative column—thanks. And I really like the pictures…there's something Old Testament about them. Prophet, tablet, etc. :-)"

Can You Get Good ISO 6400 from an Olympus E-P1?

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Posted on 17th June 2010 by Michael Johnston in Photography |Software

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By Ctein

I've just hit upon something rather cool and somewhat unexpected. Some of you will recall a column of mine from a year or so back called "JPEG...Seriously?" Well, I've found a reason for photographing JPEGs with my Olympus Pen E-P1. I can use them to get much, much better results at ISO 6400 than I could pull out of a RAW file using every trick I know.

(As usual, you can click on any of these illustrations to see them larger.)

Blog142figure1 Fig. 1. Olympus Pen RAW photographs at ISO 6400 are not lovely things. The full frame is on top, with a 100% magnification crop below. Observe the serious chroma noise, especially the horizontal and vertical stripes. © 2010 by Ctein.

As I wrote at the beginning of the year in "What Tests Don't Tell You," the E-P1 has some serious plaid chroma noise problems above ISO 800. It's great up to there, and then quality just falls off a cliff. ISO 1600 is marginal by my standards, everything above that is crap due to the chroma noise. Figure 1 shows a particularly egregious example of ISO 6400 quality in RAW mode; there's no way that I've found to make this RAW into a palatable photograph.

Now, take a look at the same photograph saved as JPEG in the camera (figure 2) . It's not perfect; there's some large low-frequency blotchiness, but that's the kind of stuff I could dodge or burn away. The chroma quality is not utterly sucking. It's usually not even this bad in most of the ISO 6400 photographs; this is just about the worst example I could come up with.

Blog142figure2 Fig. 2. The same photograph as in figure 1, but saved as a JPEG in camera. Excellent reduction of the chroma noise, but overall the picture is soft and veiled, and the highlights and shadows are blocked up. © 2010 by Ctein.

I'm truly amazed what the internal data massaging in the camera can do. If I had to, I could live with this as an okay snapshot. I don't much like that overall veiled quality, plus it's rather a shame losing several stops of highlight and shadow detail, most evident in the illuminated and dark stained glass windows and the trees).

So I said to myself, wait a minute...the Olympus can record in RAW+JPEG mode; what if I do that and then mix the two photographs in Photoshop? Start with the JPEG as the base layer, convert the RAW to a grayscale image (which almost completely eliminates the plaid problem), paste it in as a second layer over the JPEG, and set the blend mode to Luminosity (figure 3). I wind up with a photograph that has the clean chroma of the JPEG but retains most of the fine detail structure and tonal range of the RAW file. It's also a lot grainier.

Blog142figure3
Fig. 3. This layer stack combines a monochrome, noise-filtered copy of figure 1 with the JPEG from figure 2. The result is figure 4.

So, I further said to myself, what if I use my most flexible noise reduction plug-in (Imagenomic NoiseWare) to get rid of majority of the grain in the RAW layer, but not so much that I'm seriously compromising fine detail? Which leads me to Figure 4. Hey, it works! It's grainy, but the grain is even and tight. It's a nice compromise mix of the best characteristics of both source photographs.

Blog142figure4 Fig. 4. This is not half bad! Chroma noise is much better controlled than in the RAW photograph, but it preserves most of the RAW's detail and tonal range. It also has an acceptable compromise between grain and fine detail. © 2010 by Ctein.

It prints out as a fairly decent 8x10 (Mike's seen prints and Oren and Carl have seen full-size JPEGs, so they can confirm this). Nothing I would call professional quality by my standards, but more than pretty enough. It would be even better if I did a little bit of dodging and burning in on the remaining blotches; I didn't because I'm trying to show what the file really looks like. But, it wouldn't take me long to clean it up a lot more.

Best of all is that I can turn at least 90% of this merging process into a Photoshop automation. Possibly all of it; I haven't experimented with enough photographs yet. Even by hand it's very fast, but an automation would save me a whole bunch of repetitive mouse clicks.

Here are some of the better ISO 6400 results I've gotten out of this new trick (figures 5–7). Is it perfection? Of course not. But seeing as I'd previously decided this camera wasn't any good above ISO 800 I'm a mighty happy camper.

Blog142figure5 Fig. 5. RAW at the top, merged JPEG+RAW on the bottom. It's a big improvement, and the print looks even better; it's genuinely pleasing. © 2010 by Ctein.

Blog142figure6
Fig. 6. The merged RAW+JPEG photo combines most of the exposure range of the RAW file and most of the noise reduction of the JPEG. Compare the 100% sections at the bottom, RAW on left, RAW+JPEG on right. © 2010 by Ctein.

Blog142figure7 Fig. 7. My best result so far, and a genuinely good-looking 8x10 print. © 2010 by Ctein.

Ctein's weekly column appears every Thursday on TOP.

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Original contents copyright 2010 by Michael C. Johnston and/or the bylined author. All Rights Reserved.

Featured Comment by Semilog: "I suspect that there are at least a couple of things going on here.

"First, Olympus has access to much more proprietary information about the sensor and its specific hardware implementation than even, say, DxO does.

"Second, as Andrew Molitor says, the in-camera software (firmware) can be tuned to deal not only with a specific chip design/implementation, but a specific sample of a chip. This is really important because consumer devices, unlike scientific devices, have rather heterogeneous pixels.

"(Scientific devices are usually "grade 0," i.e., zero defects beyond a rather stringent specification. Moreover, scientific devices are generally CCDs, which are usually both more linear in response, and more homogeneous pixel-to-pixel than CMOS sensors. Because grade 0 devices are generally the cream of the crop, selected from much larger runs of devices, they also command very a very steep price premium. Your garden-variety D90 or E-PL1 is not going to contain a grade 0 sensor!)

"The sample-specific dark current calibration done at the factory accounts for variation not only between pixels, but between rows of pixels. On many cameras, this calibration is re-doable through the menus, useful since cosmic ray hits generate new hot and cold pixels over time.

"This sample-specific calibration information is potentially really important when making a zeroed image to start with, prior to application of conventional NR algorithms. This information is not stored in a RAW file, and thus is not available to any of the third-party RAW developers, fundamentally compromising their performance no matter how good they are (unless the dark subtraction is done upstream of the RAW file, which many forum idiots elsewhere deride as not kosher, but which is in fact a great idea, for reasons that now should be obvious)."

Adobe Releases Lightroom 3 (Final)

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Posted on 8th June 2010 by admin in Software

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Good news for Lightroom users. Adobe has released final code of version 3 of the product.

Click here for more info
or
Click here to download a trial (registration required)

Adobe Lightroom 3 Final Released

Improve your photography in leaps and bounds with 123di

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Posted on 5th May 2010 by admin in Software

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The 123 of Digital Imaging has been around, well … almost as long as Digital Camera’s have been around and has come to be known as the authoritive guide to digital photography. 123di has helped photographers from beginners to intermediate to advanced to improve their digital photograph skills.

- Learn digital photography through a highly visual and interactive guide containing thousands of graphics and animations.
- How to use the right camera settings and composition techniques to capture stunning images.
- Discover secrets to shooting award-winning pictures.

The 123di guide is available for purchase online with immediate download by clicking here, you could be learning and improving your photography within the hour.


Take Amazing Photos

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Posted on 22nd April 2010 by admin in Software

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Take control of your digital camera with 123di

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Posted on 21st April 2010 by admin in Software

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Take better photos with best guide to digital photography

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Posted on 19th April 2010 by admin in Software

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Master your digital camera as easy as 1-2-3

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Posted on 18th April 2010 by admin in Software

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Learn to take better photos with the most authoritive guide to digital photography

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Posted on 17th April 2010 by admin in Software

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Become a better photographer today with the 123di guide to digital photography

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Posted on 15th April 2010 by admin in Software

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123di – The most complete, authoritive digital photography interactive guide.

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Posted on 13th April 2010 by admin in Software

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The 123 Guide to digital photography – start taking great photos today.

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Posted on 13th April 2010 by admin in Software

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Learn to take great photos with the most authoritive interactive guide available.

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Posted on 12th April 2010 by admin in Software

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Adobe releases Photoshop.com app for Android

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Posted on 6th November 2009 by News: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com) in Software

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Adobe has introduced Photoshop.com Mobile as an application for mobile phones running the Android operating system. It enables users to view, edit and apply effects to images. Once edited, images can be uploaded to the user's Photoshop.com account for sharing or back-up purposes. Currently available only in the US and Canada, the application is available as a free download from the Android Market.

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